Chinese Influences (Fiji and NZ) and a Shantytown

The Chinese Lantern festival and bringing in the year of the dragon reminds me of a very interesting conversation I had in Fiji and that was the first part in a series of observations about the interesting way different cultures interact (or not). We saw many thousand Kiwis of different ethnicities at the festival in Auckland.  In Fiji there were two main type of Fijians-- Fijians and Fiji-Indians. The two looked pretty different, the latter being originally from India and clearly 'Indian=looking'--as noted before though they can not BY LAW be called Fijians.  They always have to be Fiji-Indians.  Would it not be strange if in America we made a certain group carry the hyphen at all times never allowing themselves to be just 'Americans'?  No Fiji-Chinese by the way.  There are many Fijians who had Chinese ancestors and but they can call themselves (just) Fijians.  This brings me to my little chat with Michael.  Michael was the 'cultural director' at the island resort we stayed at.  I joined him for a walk to the Chinese Cemetery.

Why go to a cemetery?  For one thing, it seemed odd there was even a Chinese cemetery tour touted as an agenda item.  Given Michael also did the 'Fiji Herbal remedies' talk which I sadly missed due to pressing snorkeling and general 'lay-around-0n-beach' needs, I figured I could see what the Chinese thing was AND press Michael on fiji herbs.  Two-fers always nice.  We walked away from the beach huts pausing for Michael to scale a tree to retrieve two ripe mangoes which the four of us on the tour shared and devoured. He then led us across the golf course to a small tree clad hill.  There among the trees were the gravestones pictured.  Apparently all belonging to a Chinese family who owned the coconut plantation on which the resort now stood.  The family came over to escape persecution in the 1860s or so and employed local Fijians to farm the coconuts for copra. The Chinese family did well until they had to sell their land and today the plantation is owned by Australians.  In fact, most of the resorts in Fiji are Australian or U.S. owned!! We thought we were supporting the local Fiji economy but not so.  The interesting twist?  Michael was a direct descendent of the Chinese family who owned the plantation.  Just employed by the Australian, not owning any part.  And he was not very happy with it.  In fact, he went on about how the local Fijians 'do not really like to work hard' but are not thrilled when any outsiders (e.g., Indians) come in and work hard either.  In fact, many Indians went to Fiji and soon owned land but the government cracked down and now Fiji-Indians are not allowed to own any land.  But Australians can????  Some interesting cultural dynamics in Fiji for sure. 

 So the Chinese in Fiji did pretty well but were then essentially pushed out of Fiji land ownership.  At least they had a good 100 years or so as Michael put it.  If one continues a line south from China past Fiji (twist a little) you do hit New Zealand. As M mentioned in her post on lanterns, the Chinese are the largest immigrant group in New Zealand.  They first came to NZ in the 1860s.  When we were on the South Island, we stopped into a little historical old west town called Shantytown, just north of Hokita and south of Greymouth. It has some great historical buildings, some of the best artifacts that we have seen, and in one corner--- Chinatown.  We got to see a reconstruction of how Chinese miners lived. A general store

 a hut where the miners slept---the kids loved trying it out, and even did a little gold prospecting.  From the descriptions of Chinese life it looked like the Chinese had it a lot better in NZ than they did in the 1849 gold rush in San Francisco and in America in general.

 Shantytown had a lot of the usual western stuff but it was calm and peaceful.  No large crowds here.  We road a steam train, sat on a stagecoach, panned for gold, and looked at a number of circa 1870-1900 houses, a hospital, firestation and jail.  Try out the old water pump, stroll down the old streets.  Good times.

 Insert 'ole ball and chain' joke about here.....:)